Page 136 - Barbara Merry - The Splicing Handbook

that could be relevant when you’re protecting a chafe-prone section of a standing

part rather than an eye.)
Execute the double-braid eye splice almost to completion, stopping just short
of the lock-stitch (see page 46). Mark the eye, then carefully “unmilk” the splice
to expose the crossover. If the crossover is disturbed, the splice will be spoiled,
so it is wise to stitch the crossover with needle and twine to prevent any
slippage.

Unmilk the splice farther so that the marks on the core delineating the extent
of the eye are in a straight line. Then put this straight-line section under tension
with two lengths of small stuff, pulling in opposite directions. (Hitch the small
stuff to the rope with timber hitches, as shown; see page 226 for a close-up view
of the timber hitch.) A firm pull is all that is necessary. This will make the job
easier because your hands will be free to hold the sleeve in place while you sew.

Keeping the seam to the outside of the eye and sewing as shown, wrap the
leather sleeve according to the directions that come with the kit.
Release the rope and milk the splice back into place. It is not necessary to
remove the stitches in the crossover.

Don’t forget the last step, the lock-stitch (see page 46).

You can, of course, use leather instead of a double-braid coat for chafe
protection on twisted, plaited, and hollow-braid ropes as well. Make marks on
the rope where the eye is to be, then apply the leather sleeve before you splice
the eye. Put the marked section under tension with two timber-hitched lengths of
small stuff pulling in opposite directions, thus freeing your hands to hold and
sew the leather in place. Arrange the leather’s seam so it lies on the outside of
the eye. Release the rope from tension and complete the splice.