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48 Europe                                                                   The Economist December 16th 2017
        Tirana                                                               Kaczynski, PiS’s reclusive party leader. De-
                                                                             spite earlier speculation, the 68-year-old
        Europe’s new                                                         did not take the job for himself—as he had
                                                                             in 2006, during PiS’s first stint in power.
        go-to city                                                           The government is now headed by a more
                                                                             emollient figure: a formerbankerwho also
                                                                             continues to head the ministries offinance
        TIRANA                                                               and economic development. Mr Mora-
        Albania’s capital is enjoying a                                      wiecki served in 2010 as an economic ad-
        renaissance
                                                                             viser to Donald Tusk, who was then prime
              NCLE ERI! Uncle Eri!” shout gaggles                            minister (and is now president ofthe Euro-
        “Uofsmall boys who rush to high-five                                  pean Council). PiS and its nationalist fol-
        Erion Veliaj, the 37-year-old boss of Tirana,                        lowers loathe the liberal Mr Tusk. But Mr
        Albania’s capital. He has swung by to in-                            Morawiecki, who did not join  PiS until
        spect a street where tarmac and new sew-                             March 2016, has won MrKaczynski’s trust.
        age pipes have just been laid, and where                               Within PiS, Mr Morawiecki is a relative
        weeks ago there were potholes and mud.                               moderate. Yet in his first interview as
        No city in Europe has changed as much in                             prime minister-designate, with TV Trwam,
        the past 25 years as Tirana. Now Mr Veliaj,                          Radio Maryja’s television counterpart, he
        who istipped bysome to be a future leader                            called for the “rechristianisation”  of Eu-
        ofthe country, is changingit again.                                  rope. “In many places carols are not sung,
           In hisfirsttwo yearsasmayorMr Veliaj,                              churches are empty and are being turned
        a member of the (centre-left) Socialist                              into museums,” he said.
        Party, worked on the city centre. In June he  Not quite as expected    With the spotlight on Mr Morawiecki,
        completed work on Skanderbeg Square,                                 PiS has pushed on with its overhaul of the
        the heart of Tirana. Once a busy round-  awarded and for attempting to muzzle un-  judiciary, which it describes as an “extraor-
        about, cars have been banished and trees  friendly media, both claims he denies.  dinary caste”. On December 8th, after
        and fountains have replaced them. Plans  Asked if he would like to lead Albania in  months of deadlock, the lower house of
        are even afoot to renovate Tirana’s wacky  the future, Mr Veliaj coyly says he is think-  parliament approved modified versions of
        but dilapidated1980s pyramid.      ing only about winning a second term as  two laws that had been vetoed by Andrzej
           A quarter of a century ago, Tirana was  mayor. Right now he could not be in a bet-  Duda, the president, in July. One of them
        more capital village than capital city. Un-  ter place. Everyone can see the results of  strengthens parliament’s, and so PiS’s, in-
        der communism it was a backwater of  his work, and he benefits from not being  fluence over the National Judiciary Coun-
        200,000 people. Until 1991 private cars  embroiled in a scandal that broke in Octo-  cil, which appoints judges. The other af-
        were banned, there were few shops and  ber that has damaged Mr Rama and the  fects the Supreme Court, which, among
        virtually no entertainment. Now (partly  government. A former minister of interior  other duties, rules on the validity of elec-
        thanks to boundary changes) it is home to  was accused of collusion with drug smug-  tions. About 40% of its 80-odd judges will
        1m people—more than a third of Albania’s  glers, a claim he denies. Satisfyingly for Mr  have to stand down. The new law sets a re-
        population. The city generates half of the  Veliaj, the former minister, whose career  tirement age of 65—but gives the president
        country’s GDP, says MrVeliaj.      has been destroyed, was his only serious  discretion to retain older judges if he ap-
           The fall of communism ushered in a  challenger for the eventual future leader-  proves of them. The new laws mean that
        crazed phase of building everywhere, in-  ship ofthe Socialist Party. 7  all the courts will be politicised, warns the
        cluding over Tirana’s central park. Edi                              head ofa judges’ association.
        Rama, now the Socialist prime minister,                                Worldlier than his predecessor, Mr Mo-
        cleared away many of the centre’s illegal  Poland                    rawiecki will tryto improve the Polish gov-
        buildings when he was mayor. Mr Veliaj                               ernment’s image. Yet patience may be run-
        has picked up where he left off.    Debeatified                        ning out. The European Commission,
           When Mr Veliaj was ten his father died                            which has challenged the judicial reforms
        and he was taken to Greece on his uncle’s                            for undermining the independence of the
        shoulders as they clambered across the                               courts, has been awaiting the laws’ final
        mountainous border. Later he studied in                              wording before deciding how aggressively
        America and Britain. He first came to pub-  WARSAW                    to pursue infringement  proceedings
        lic attention runningMjaft, an activist anti-                        against Warsaw. Commission sources say
        corruption group which did much to dis-  The prime ministergets the chop  that if the laws are signed in their current
        credit the government ofSali Berisha, who  N DECEMBER 6TH Beata Szydlo, then  state, the sanctions procedure will imme-
        was prime ministerfrom 2005 to 2013.   OPoland’s prime minister, was the spe-  diated be triggered. Adecision this week to
           Now that he is half way through his  cial guest on Radio Maryja, a conservative  fine a broadcaster for the way it covered
        mandate Mr Veliaj has switched his atten-  radio station that is close to the governing  opposition protests also fuels concern.
        tion to Tirana’s suburbs. Almost all the  Lawand Justice (PiS) party. Herappearance  Halfway through its term, PiS remains
        buildings there were illegal, and services  was overshadowed by something every-  popular, buoyed by its extravagant welfare
        patchy. Some homes and businesses built  one had known forweeks: Mrs Szydlo was  policies, especially generous child subsi-
        in parks and on other areas where they  on her way out. And indeed by the follow-  dies. A poll last week puts its support at
        should not be are now being demolished;  ingevening, she wasthankingPolesfor her  41%, far ahead of the two main centrist op-
        even more are beinglegalised. Formany in  two years in office. On December 11th Ma-  position parties, on a combined 29%. As
        the suburbs this is the first time they are  teusz Morawiecki, her deputy, was in-  Poland heads towards local elections next
        coming into contact with the state in 25  stalled as prime minister. Mrs Szydlo was  year, followed by parliamentary ones in
        years, says MrVeliaj.              allowed to stay on; but she is now her for-  2019, PiS is emphasising continuity. After
           His enemies attack him for not being  merdeputy’s deputy.         all, the country’s real boss—MrKaczynski—
        transparent about how contracts are  The switch was ordered by Jaroslaw  will not be changingany time soon. 7
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