Page 36 - Thirst Magazine Issue No. 3 Coffee & Tea

ON COFFEE:

Monks, Prohibition & Enlightenment

The origins of coffee are sketchy at best but Martin also shares the importance of
the general consensus is that a Geminite “preserving and capturing all aromas while they
monk travelling through Ethiopia noticed that are still fresh” when using coffee and cocktails
animals who ate the berries of a certain tree by “turning coffee into syrups or cordials”.
were more active than the others. He tried this In South East Asia coffee culture has also
for himself, roasting the seeds and adding them seen a huge upturn in respect for quality and
to boiled water, creating the first pot of coffee. freshness. Bars such as The Curator Coffee
The story then sees coffee being misunderstood & Cocktails in Manila by David Ong, known
as “Devils work” to being praised as a gift from across town for being very serious about BOTH
the gods, eventually finding its way to British specialty coffee and craft cocktails, are among
coffee houses during the beginning of the “Age the first to truly focus on delivering a superior
of Enlightenment”. product. The Curator Coffee & Cocktails
Coffee in cocktails, however, does not get a opened on December 5th 2013 (Repeal Day)
mention in writing until 1892 in The Flowing and since December 2016, they have moved
Bowl by The Only William. Recipes for coffee coffee service in front of their previously hidden
syrups and liqueurs can be found in Jerry entrance whilst extending hours through the
Thomas’ 1862 The Bartenders Guide, in great night, enabling the coffee house to have its own
detail and length, however no instructions as to identity.
how they were used. They are constantly changing their line-
It is not until 1952 when Stanton Delaplane, up of coffee and cocktail offerings depending
a reporter from the San Francisco Chronicle, on what’s available and what they feel their
returns to America with a recipe he picked customers should experience. However,
up at Shannon Airport, Ireland, for the Irish superb customer service is their forte. Genuine
Coffee. This is where we start to see a real relationships forged with customers one coffee
classic cocktail created. Later the famed and/or cocktail at a time has led to a strong
Espresso Martini is created by the late Dick community within.
Bradsell at Fred’s Club London in 1980. They are also #16 in the Asia’s 50 Best Bars
This, for me, is where coffee in cocktails 2016 list and is arguably the Philippines’ best
really took off. In the 1980s, liquor companies cocktail bar… and coffee shop.
were king, the likes of Tia Maria and Kahlua David Says:
had found their vehicle and Espresso Martinis “Third wave, Specialty Coffee shops are
were consumed by the dozen. This did not still gaining popularity in Manila. Compared
mean coffee itself was being taken seriously. It to the rest of the world, we have much to catch
is only in the past five years that I have noticed up with. However, new trends suggest relying
coffee as a process and a stand alone ingredient more on advanced equipment to make brews
being truly considered, not only for quality consistent and efficient. If you ask me, it’s a
but for social responsibility reasons as well. step back as the human aspect - the knowledge,
The modern bartender now looks much closer skill… More importantly, the hospitality - are
at where their ingredients are coming from, what makes this industry special.”
seeking freshness and diversity of flavor to If coffee is here to stay and is now well
achieve authenticity in their cocktail creations. respected by consumers and bartenders alike,
To me, Martin Hudak, winner of 2017’s then what are the new and inventive ways in
Coffee In Good Spirits Competition (and runner which it is being used?
up in the two previous years), is ahead of the Stefanie Goh, owner of Birdy’s Brew has
curve for all things coffee and cocktail related. her own unique outlook on the coffee scene in
With an education in coffee stretching back Singapore’s tropical climate. She focuses solely
seven years to his home in Slovakia before on cold brew coffee in a ready to drink espresso
moving to London to work at The American format called Into The Black. Having first
Bar, Savoy, he has dedicated his career to his discovered cold brew in Melbourne and Sydney
passion for coffee and cocktails. (well known for how seriously they take both
When asked how he has seen coffee in the
cocktail world grow over the years, he humbly
replied “(In) these last two years it has become
big, I now see more prestigious bars using coffee
in combination with alcohol as well as having
more respect for the style of beans and how they
are used. Coffee in cocktails will be a trend and
I just followed it over the years. I’m very happy
that I can be a part of this ‘Golden Era’.

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