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A28    SCIENCE
               Thursday 15 November 2018
            No accounting for these tastes: Artificial flavors a mystery




             By CANDICE CHOI             of products the six ingredi-  countability  Office  issued  "artificial  flavor,"  he  said  But  Bernstein  said  a  more
              AP Food & Health Writer    ents  are  used  in.  But  they   a  report  saying  the  clause  people don't know in what  robust  regulatory  system
             NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  Six  ar-  noted  in  statements  that   should be re-examined be-  concentrations     they're  might inspire greater public
             tificial  flavors  are  being                                                                                      confidence about flavors.
             ordered  out  of  the  food                                                                                        In  a  separate  but  related
             supply  in  a  dispute  over                                                                                       lawsuit, the FDA is also fac-
             their safety, but good luck                                                                                        ing  a  challenge  over  its
             to  anyone  who  wants  to                                                                                         oversight of the universe of
             know  which  cookies,  can-                                                                                        ingredients companies can
             dies or drinks they're in.                                                                                         put into foods, including ar-
             The  dispute  highlights  the                                                                                      tificial  flavors.  New  flavors,
             complex  rules  that  govern                                                                                       sweeteners  and  other  in-
             what goes in our food, how                                                                                         gredients  can  go  through
             much  the  public  knows                                                                                           an FDA petition process to
             about it, and a mysterious                                                                                         be  approved  as  food  ad-
             class  of  ingredients  that                                                                                       ditives.  But  another  option
             has evolved over decades                                                                                           lets  manufacturers  deem
             largely  outside  of  public                                                                                       their  own  ingredients  to
             view.                                                                                                              be  "generally  recognized
             On  food  packages,  hun-                                                                                          as  safe."  There's  no  clear
             dreds of ingredients are list-                                                                                     rule  for  when  ingredients
             ed simply as natural flavor                                                                                        should  take  one  path  or
             or  artificial  flavor.    Even  in                                                                                the  other.  The  artificial
             minute amounts, they help                                                                                          sweetener  Splenda  is  an
             make  potato  chips  taste                                                                                         approved  food  additive.
             oniony  or  give  fruit  candy                                                                                     Another sweetener, stevia,
             that twang.                 This Thursday, Nov. 8, 2018 photo shows part of an ingredient label, which lists "artificial   was  declared  GRAS  by
             "The food system we have    flavoring," on a packet of candy in New York.                                          manufacturers. The six artifi-
             is  unimaginable  without                                                                         Associated Press  cial flavors in question were
             flavor  additives,"  said  Na-                                                                                     approved  food  additives,
             dia  Berenstein,  a  historian  the compounds have nat-  cause of its inflexibility.  used in particular products.  along with dozens of other
             of  flavor  science  based  in  ural  counterparts  in  foods   Christopher  Kemp,  a  pro-  "It's all secret. You can't pick  synthetic flavors.
             New York.                   like  basil,  coffee,  grapes   fessor  of  cancer  biology  up an ice cream or chew-    The  flavor  industry  group
             The  flavors  are  also  at  the  and peppermint, and that   at  the  Fred  Hutchinson  ing gum or a baked good  also     regularly   declares
             center  of  a  dispute  over  the action does not affect   Cancer  Research  Center,  and  have  any  idea  what  other ingredients like them
             how ingredients should be  the  naturally  derived  ver-  doesn't think the rule is nec-  chemicals are in there," he  to be GRAS, without formal
             regulated.                  sions.                       essarily  too  strict  a  thresh-  said.    Berenstein,  the  fla-  review  by  the  FDA.  Critics
             The U.S. Food and Drug Ad-  The FDA said it had to order   old. He said animal studies  vor  science  historian,  said  say  GRAS  determinations
             ministration  is  giving  com-  the artificial versions out of   provide  the  strongest  evi-  the  ingredients  in  flavors  were  meant  for  basic  in-
             panies two years to purge  the food supply because of    dence about cancer risk in  don't  have  to  be  speci-   gredients like salt and vine-
             their products of six artificial  a  lawsuit  brought  by  con-  humans, and that it is bet-  fied in part because regu-  gar, not highly engineered
             flavors — even though the  sumer  advocacy  groups       ter to err on the side of cau-  lators  decided  long  ago  ingredients.  The  advoca-
             FDA made clear it believes  that  cited  a  60-year-old   tion.                       that  listing  the  names  of  cy  groups  suing  the  FDA
             the  ingredients  are  safe  in  regulation  known  as  the   Erik Olson of the Natural Re-  compounds  on  packages  say  the  GRAS  option  has
             the trace amounts they are  Delaney  clause.  The  rule   sources  Defense  Council,  might just confuse people.  turned into a loophole that
             used.                       prohibits  additives  shown   one of the groups that sued  And  she  stressed  that  fla-  lets companies approve all
             The  six  artificial  flavors  in  to have caused cancer in   over  the  six  ingredients,  vors are used in infinitesimal  sorts of ingredients without
             question,  with  names  like  animals,  even  if  tested  at   said it's also unknown what  amounts. In 2015, the flavor  public  scrutiny,  including
             methyl  eugenol,  benzo-    doses far higher than what   effect  they  might  have  industry  estimates  just  40  artificial flavors. In Septem-
             phenone,  ethyl  acrylate  a person would consume.       when used in combination  pounds of one of the now  ber,  a  judge  allowed  the
             and  pyridine,  are  used  to  In  a  statement,  the  flavor   with other ingredients. And  banned  artificial  ingredi-  legal  challenge  to  move
             create  cinnamon  or  spicy  industry  group  said  the   since  they're  listed  only  as  ents was produced.     forward.q
             notes, fruity or minty flavors,  Delaney Clause doesn't al-
             or  even  hints  of  balsamic  low regulators to assess an                            Handwritten Einstein letter
             vinegar.                    ingredient's  risk  based  on
             The  FDA  and  the  Flavor  modern  scientific  under-                                auctioned off for nearly $40,000
             and  Extract  Manufactur-   standing,  but  that  chang-
             ers  Association,  an  indus-  ing it would require an act                            JERUSALEM (AP) — A hand-     ter  to  his  sister  after  going
             try group, did not respond  of Congress. As far back as                               written  letter  written  by  into hiding in 1922 following
             when  asked  for  examples  1981, the Government Ac-                                  Albert  Einstein  warning  of  the assassination of Germa-
                                                                                                   the dangers of growing na-   ny’s Jewish foreign minister
                                                                                                   tionalism and anti-Semitism  by right-wing extremists. Po-
                                                                                                   years before the Nazis rose  lice had warned the Jewish
                                                                                                   to  power  has  been  sold  scientist  that  his  life  could
                                                                                                   for  nearly  $40,000.  The  Ke-  be in danger too.“Here are
                                                                                                   dem  Auction  House  says  brewing economically and
                                                                                                   the  previously  unknown  politically dark times, so I’m
                                                                      This  undated  photo  released   letter,  brought  forward  by  happy  to  be  able  to  get
                                                                      by the Kedem Auction House,   an  anonymous  collector,  away from everything,” he
                                                                      shows a copy of a 1922 letter
                                                                      Albert  Einstein  wrote  to  his   fetched $39,360 in bidding  wrote. Kedem says the let-
                                                                      beloved younger sister, Maja.   in  Jerusalem  on  Tuesday  ter was sold at roughly dou-
                                                                                  Associated Press  night. Einstein wrote the let-  ble its expected price. q
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