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A6   U.S. NEWS
              Saturday 29 September 2018

            What’s yogurt? Industry wants greater liberty to use term





                                                                                                                                It wasn’t until 1970 that the
                                                                                                                                FDA  drew  a  line:  Peanut
                                                                                                                                butter needs to be at least
                                                                                                                                90 percent peanuts.
                                                                                                                                The  Association  for  Dress-
                                                                                                                                ing & Sauces has also been
                                                                                                                                calling for the repeal of the
                                                                                                                                standard  for  French  dress-
                                                                                                                                ing,  given  the  proliferation
                                                                                                                                of dressings like Ranch and
                                                                                                                                Italian  that  do  not  have
                                                                                                                                standards.  The  FDA  ap-
                                                                                                                                pears  to  be  preparing  to
                                                                                                                                grant that wish, according
                                                                                                                                to an April email .
                                                                                                                                Over  the  years,  the  FDA
                                                                                                                                moved  away  from  trying
                                                                                                                                to establish new standards
                                                                                                                                in  favor  of  requiring  prod-
                                                                                                                                ucts  to  list  ingredients  and
                                                                                                                                nutrition  information,  said
                                                                                                                                Xaq  Frohlich,  a  professor
                                                                                                                                of food labeling at Auburn
                                                                                                                                University.
                                                                                                                                The policy shift was partly a
                                                                                                                                response to the rise of low-
                                                                                                                                fat diets, he said. Products
                                                                                                                                that may have once been
            This July 11, 2018, file photo shows yogurt on display at a grocery store in River Ridge, La.                       considered  cheap  imita-
                                                                                                               Associated Press  tions  were  suddenly  desir-
            By CANDICE CHOI              took hold decades ago.       Adding  to  the  confusion,  The  resulting  product  can  able  because  they  didn’t
             AP Food & Health Writer     But  writing  those  rules  the association says yogurt  be called neither “low-fat”  conform  to  the  standards
            NEW YORK (AP) — If low-fat  sometimes  turned  into  a  makers  can  opt  to  follow  nor  “yogurt,”  the  associa-  for fat.
            yogurt is blended with fatty  bureaucratic  nightmare  —  the 1981, 1982 or 2009 pro-  tion says.                   LASTING DEFINITIONS
            ingredients like coconut or  peanut  butter’s  definition  visions in the absence of a  Instead,  the  association  Debate around what foods
            chocolate, is it still low-fat?  took more than a decade  final rule.                  says  regular  yogurt  should  can  be  called  is  popping
            Is it even yogurt?           —  and  regulators  eventu-  STANDARDS REVIEWED           simply be required to have  up  again  as  startups  de-
            The  U.S.  government  has  ally  stopped  setting  new  FDA  Commissioner  Scott  more  than  3  grams  of  fat  velop alternatives to meat
            rules  about  what  can  be  standards.  That’s  part  of  Gottlieb is reviving the mat-  — whether it’s from milkfat,  and  other  products.  It’s  a
            called  “yogurt,”  and  the  the reason foods like ketch-  ter  with  plans  to  “modern-  coconut, chocolate or oth-  reminder  of  how  messy  it
            dairy  industry  says  it’s  not  up  have  rules,  but  others  ize” the standards. Milk pro-  er  ingredients.  If  the  over-  can  be  to  spell  out  food
            clear  what  the  answers  like mustard don’t.            ducers take it as a sign the  all product has 3 grams of  meanings.
            are. Now it’s hopeful it will  The  ongoing  dispute  over  agency  will  crack  down  fat or less, then it could be  “Even  if  they  seem  right
            finally  get  to  use  the  term  yogurt offers a taste of how  on  soy  and  almond  drinks  labeled low-fat in line with  at  the  moment,  they  can
            with  greater  liberty,  with  sour things can get.       that call themselves “milk,”  the  broader  definition  of  very  quickly  become  out-
            the  Trump  administration  The Food and Drug Admin-      which  the  standards  say  “low fat,” the group says.    dated,”  said  Stuart  Pape,
            in the process of updating  istration established a stan-  comes from a cow.           THE PEANUT BUTTER RULE       an attorney who previously
            the yogurt definition.       dard  for  foods  labeled  as  Gottlieb  has  also  called  Industry  complaints  about  worked  for  the  yogurt  in-
            The  industry  push  to  open  “yogurt” in 1981 that limited  out  yogurt  as  a  category  the  standards  aren’t  new.  dustry  and  vegan  alterna-
            up  the  yogurt  standard  il-  its ingredients.          where there have been “in-   It’s one reason finalizing the  tives.
            lustrates how fraught it can  The  industry  swiftly  object-  novations.”  An  FDA  email  rules for peanut butter was  Food-makers  can  also  get
            be  to  define  a  food,  es-  ed.                        from June obtained by The  such an ordeal.                around  existing  standards
            pecially  as  manufacturing  The  following  year,  the  Associated Press through a  The  FDA  proposed  a  pea-    with a little creativity.
            practices  and  consumer  agency  suspended  en-          public  records  request  in-  nut  butter  standard  in  the  A  product  named  “Bred-
            tastes change.               forcement on various provi-  cludes “rulemaking action”  late  1950s  after  investigat-  Spred” once defied expec-
            Timothy Lytton, a professor  sions and allowed the addi-  for  yogurt,  though  the  at-  ing Jif for having just 75 per-  tations for jam.
            of law at Georgia State Uni-  tion of preservatives.      tachment  with  the  details  cent  peanuts,  according  Cool Whip skirts the milkfat
            versity, notes the economic  A never-finalized 2009 pro-  was not released.            to Angie Boyce, a fellow at  requirement  for  whipped
            and  political  factors  that  posal  offered  a  unified  In  addition  to  finalizing  a  the  Johns  Hopkins  Berman  cream.  And  in  the  yogurt
            determine food standards.  standard      and    allowed  yogurt  standard,  the  Inter-  Institute of Bioethics who re-  section, there’s now a non-
            “These are social construc-  emulsifiers  as  well.  The  yo-  national  Dairy  Foods  Asso-  searched food standards.  dairy  product  called  Ca-
            tions,” Lytton said.         gurt  industry  says  that  has  ciation is renewing its push  The  Peanut  Butter  Manu-  shewgurt.
            Government       standards  cultivated  confusion  and  to  get  rid  of  the  require-  facturers  Association  ob-  Such  newcomers  may  be
            exist  for  a  range  of  pack-  left it vulnerable to lawsuits.  ment  that  regular  yogurt  jected,  saying  ingredients  why  the  dairy  industry  still
            aged foods, mostly for one-  “What’s  the  rule?  I  mean,  have at least 3.25 percent  like  oils  and  sweeteners  wants   some    guardrails
            time pantry staples such as  make  a  rule,”  said  Bailey  milkfat.                   make peanut butter tastier  around yogurt.
            bread,  jam  and  canned  Wood,  spokesman  for  the  It  says  that  causes  confu-   and  easier  to  spread.  Dis-  “You  can’t  make  some-
            peas.                        International  Dairy  Foods  sion over products that mix  agreement  over  exactly  thing  completely  out  of
            The  standards  were  sup-   Association,  whose  mem-    low-fat yogurt with ingredi-  when  a  peanut  spread  the line and call it yogurt,”
            posed to ensure a level of  bers  include  Chobani,  Da-  ents like coconut that push  turns into peanut butter spi-  said John Allan of the dairy
            quality as mass production  none and Yoplait.             up the fat content.          raled into a yearslong fight.  foods association.q
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