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CHARDONNAY
#3.LW1 2019 By Farr Geelong, Vic
The Farr family has presented a resolute and faithful rendering of the vineyards of Geelong since 1978. That’s when Gary Farr started out as winemaker at
Bannockburn. His intimate nurturing of the land on his doorstep was informed by a dozen vintages at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, stints in the USA at
Cristom, Oregon and Calera, California, and sojourns to areas such as the Shiraz and Viognier heartland of the Rhône Valley. Prescient and purposeful
planting of the By Farr vineyards began in 1994 and the wines that ensued quickly established a formidable reputation. Nick Farr took charge of the range
in 2009, and his comment that his father is 90% of his winemaking inspiration is borne out by the attitude, depth of character and understated finesse
of the wines.
“No matter what you call it, this is a beautiful wine. It covers the bases of freshness, flavour, texture and length and then adds the indefinable. If you feel in
desperate need of one long lazy afternoon then this hands it to you. It’s stone fruity and grapefruit-edged and flinty and none of those things. Its cedarwood
notes are painted on the bare skin of Chardonnay. Trust. From the first sip it establishes trust”. Campbell Mattinson
#1.LW1 2018 Lethbridge Oh La La Geelong, Vic
“Bold colour. Honey and almond, peaches and cream, spice too, and a bit of lemon zest. It’s round and creamy, but lively too, with an almost grapefruity core
of acidity pushing through peaches, and oatmeal with apples and cinnamon. Finish runs a bit flinty, and goes off with a juicy grapefruity bang. Ready now,
and will appeal to those who want a little more weight and flavour in their Chardonnay.” Gary Walsh-93 Points
#1.LW1 2016 Penny’s Hill The Minimalist Adelaide Hills, SA
Alexia Roberts’ trophy cupboard must be almost bursting at the seams right now, but while it’s her McLaren Vale reds that have been receiving all the
international wine show glory, it’s her Adelaide Hills chardonnay that should be getting equal attention. Sourced from a single vineyard in Piccadilly,
wild fermented in French oak barrels, then left on lees during maturation, it’s a beautiful balance of generosity, complexity and finesse. Very classy stuff.
4.5 Stars
“Straw-coloured. A generous, flowing chardonnay. Zippy but with ample flesh. Lovely style of white to settle in with. Creamy mouthfeel too, which never hurts.
Pears, custard apples, cashews and the yellow flesh of stone fruits. Spicy oak helps out where necessary without ever relinquishing the reigns to the fruit. No
problems at all; it’s a very good wine.” Cam Mattinson-94 Points
#3.LW1 2018 Vasse Felix Heytsbury Margaret River, WA
Pristine isolation, ancient lands and twin oceans make Margaret River a wine paradise and one of the world’s greatest environments to grow ultra-
premium Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. At the heart of this is the region’s founding wine estate, Vasse Felix.
“Heytesbury has always been a yin and yang wine. It has power, structure and depth yet can appear reticent in its youth. The fruit is fabulous. Wafts of lemon
balm, ginger cream and spicy oak too but it is all about the palate - linear, long, super fine, a tight acid line, it has a crushed rock character with moreish flinty
sulphides - the list goes on. Everything in sync. It’s one heck of a classy chardonnay .98 points, James Halliday
#2.LW1 2019 Bindi Kostas Rind Macedon Ranges, Vic
A more relaxed feel to Kostas Rind from this release. Lots of interest, just this textural feel that I haven’t seen for a while. Lovely stuff.
“Supple and mellow in its vibe but dances with its light and lacy flavours and pretty scents. Lots of just-ripe stone fruit, lemon balm, soft talc-like minerally
characters, faint Parisian almond and halva with a building core of grapefruity acidity that rolls long through the cool and brittle-bright finish. It’s gentle in
a way, speaks softy, a little unassured, let’s say. In all that, a comforting, gentle approach and gigantic appeal; this misses nothing in its roll call of detail. Very
good drinking, even right now”. Gary Walsh