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       32   Asia                                                                                                    The Economist April 25th 2020



         2 country. The panoply of prophylactics rec-     March. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbek-      ment is draconian by Western standards:
           ommended by Mr Berdymukhamedov, a              istan have closed public places, restricted   Kazakhstan has detained more than 5,000
           former health minister who has written a       internal travel and ordered citizens to leave  people and jailed more than 1,600 for viola-
           book on folk remedies, includes fumiga-        home only to buy essential provisions         tions of the new rules.
           tion with  yuzarlik, a local herb which he     from nearby shops. (Residents of the Uzbek        Turkmenistan, meanwhile, is gearing
           touts as impregnable armour against infec-     city of Namangan are supposed to stray no     up for another sporting event: Horse Day
           tious disease. It is for insights like these   farther than 100 metres from their homes).    on April 26th, which celebrates the Akhal-
           that Turkmenistan “loves you with all its      Kazakhstan, which is using drones to en-      Teke, a local breed. The Protector has been
           heart”, as a poet called Gozel Shagulyyeva     force its lockdown, has banned family         known to join in the fun by competing in
           put it in a new ode to the president recently  gatherings and told those over 65 or under    horse races. He will presumably think
           published by local media.                      18 to remain indoors at all times. In some    twice about rubbing shoulders with the
              Elsewhere in Central Asia normal life       Kazakh cities residents are allowed outside   other jockeys this year. Then again, he is
           has come to a standstill since the first        only once every two days, a measure po-       such a gifted rider that he always wins by a
           coronavirus cases were detected in mid-        liced with colour-coded cards. Enforce-       big margin—a form of social distancing. 7


             Banyan Fin pickings







             Japan promotes the hunting of whales. But few Japanese want to eat them
                rom behind the counter of their tiny         This grim irony was borne out earlier      never enough to keep it afloat. For now,
            Frestaurant in Shimonoseki, Kojima            this year. From Shimonoseki in western        the subsidies continue, supposedly to
             Junko and her octogenarian mother            Japan, the state-owned whaling company,       help ease the switch to nakedly commer-
             place before Banyan some of the very last    Kyodo Senpaku, sent out its two ships in      cial whaling. But, Mr Moronuki predicts,
             bits of the very last fin whale mankind is    search of their quota of Bryde’s whales.      they will be gone in two or three years.
             ever likely to catch. In the background,     After fossicking for weeks, the vessels       Other fleets complain that whaling gets
             Billie Holiday is singing “No Regrets”.      finally stumbled on some whales on the         far more than its fair share of subsidies
             The four thin slices look and taste like     hunt’s last day. Regrettably, says the gov-   for fisheries.
             well-done beef—wolfed down with              ernment’s pointman on whaling, Moro-              Once the whalemen get to know
             microgreens and a baguette in the name       nuki Hideki, the three animals killed were    Japanese waters better, hunting close to
             of objective inquiry.                        very thin. Was Mr Moronuki disappointed       home will cut costs. Southern Ocean
                Scientific “research” was also the         or embarrassed? “Both,” he replies.           whaling was expensive. The fleet had to
             reason Japan’s government gave for              One obvious lesson is not to kill Bryde’s  guard against saboteurs. And to maintain
             continuing to kill whales in the vast        whales when, hungry after breeding, they      an air of research, vessels followed pre-
             Southern Ocean after a global morato-        are on their way north to their summer        determined zigzag courses, taking nearly
             rium on commercial whaling came into         feeding grounds around the Sea of             everything in their path. In future they
             force in 1985. But international criticism   Okhotsk. Far better to get them, fit and fat,  can just steam out and make their kill.
             along with environmental groups’ at-         on their way back in the autumn. Yet whal-        Yet the challenges are immense.
             tempts to sabotage the annual hunt           ing, like much else in Japan, follows the     Whalemeat consumption has fallen from
             proved too costly to Japan’s reputation      logic of the fiscal year, which ends in        230,000 tonnes a year in the early 1960s
             and purse (the government bankrolled         March. Whalers had to spend their allocat-    to 3,000 tonnes today, and whale is no
             the hunt). In late 2018 Japan declared it    ed ¥5bn ($46.5m) before then.                 longer cheap. Local whales have higher
             was giving up killing in the Southern           The whaling lobby is powerful—Shi-         accumulations of toxins than those in
             Ocean, where the fin whale on which           monoseki sits within the parliamentary        the Southern Ocean. One packager of
             Banyan snacked had been caught.              district of the prime minister, Abe Shinzo.   sashimi admits he sources his whale
                For environmentalists, it is a great      In the Southern Ocean the fleet counted on     meat from Norway.
             victory. The Southern Ocean is now a         subsidies: commercial sales of meat were          Morishita Joji, a former whaling
             sanctuary. But it comes at a cost. Japan                                                   diplomat at Tokyo University of Marine
             walked out of the International Whaling                                                    Science and Technology, says Kyodo
             Commission (iwc), accusing the anti-                                                       Senpaku is hampered by government
             whaling members of failing to appreciate                                                   requirements to distribute whalemeat to
             the cultural significance of whaling in                                                     all regions, even though demand is
             Japan and of imposing their values on                                                      concentrated near a few ports with long
             others. Freed from the iwc’s strictures,                                                   traditions of hunting and eating whales.
             the government said commercial whal-                                                       In such places, tiny operators never
             ing would resume in Japan’s own exten-                                                     stopped catching small species of whale
             sive waters.                                                                               that did not fall under the iwc’s remit.
                The government rightly calculated                                                       These local enterprises are more likely to
             that this would attract far less attention                                                 survive, Mr Morishita predicts.
             (Japan has a tiny anti-whaling lobby). But                                                     As for the national fleet, perhaps it
             from a conservation standpoint, whaling                                                    was just a piece of kabuki theatre to bring
             in home waters is troubling. Most whale                                                    it back with such fanfare from the South-
             populations in the Southern Ocean are                                                      ern Ocean. In reality, the prospects of the
             healthy. In Japanese waters, stocks are                                                    whales look slightly better than those of
             less bountiful—and far less researched.                                                    their predators.
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