Page 67 - Barbara Merry - The Splicing Handbook

TOOLS & MATERIALS

1 length of 1 × 5½ × 24-inch wood (for
base) (25 × 140 × 610 mm)
2 pieces of common 2 × 8s
(actual dimensions 15/8 × 7½ inches/
41 × 190 mm), 5½ inches (140 mm) long
2 hinges
2 Perko #769 clamp stays
(available at any good marine store)
6 wood screws, #8 × 2 ½ inches (64 mm)
Screws for hinges and clamp stays

2 bolts (cap screws) 5/16 × 2 ½ inches
(8 × 64 mm)
¼ inch (6 mm) square head bolt
1 pair of 6-inch (150 mm) pointed-nose vise grips
1 pair of 6-inch (150 mm) regular vise grips
2 pieces of ½-inch (12 mm) copper tubing,
¾ inch (19 mm) long

Start by drilling a ½-inch (12 mm) hole through each 2 × 8, centered at
midlength (2¾ inches/70 mm from either end) and approximately 1½ inches (38
mm) down from the top edge. Along the lower semicircular arc, 2 inches (50
mm) from the center of each ½-inch hole, drill about five 5/16-inch (8 mm)
holes.

Next, saw off the tops of the two 2 × 8s and save. The cuts should be 1½
inches (38 mm) down from the top edges, through the centers of the ½-inch (12
mm) holes.
Install the saved tops, using the hinges and the clamp stays.

Now screw the two 2 × 8s upright to the 24-inch (610 mm) piece of wood
using the #8 × 2½-inch (64 mm) screws. On my jig, I installed one of the 2 × 8s
1 inch (25 mm) from one end, and the other 6 inches (150 mm) from the other
end, but these dimensions are a matter of preference. Leaving some space at the
ends will allow you to clamp the jig to a work surface.

Once the jig is together, you will realize that you no longer have two true ½-
inch (12 mm) holes where the wire and rope go through, because the board was
cut directly at the holes. It will be beneficial if you run your ½-inch drill through
them again while they are clamped shut.