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A16    FEATURE
                    Tuesday 11 July 2017
                      A road trip through Sicily is a trip across centuries



            By SIOBHAN STARRS
            Associated Press
            PALERMO, Italy (AP) — Sic-
            ily  sits  at  the  toe  of  Italy’s
            boot,  just  2  miles  (3.2  kilo-
            meters) from the mainland,
            at  its  closest  point,  and  a
            short  ferry  ride  from  the
            town  of  Messina.  But  our
            gateway  to  Sicily  was  on
            the other side of the island,
            flying  into  the  capital  Pal-
            ermo.
            We have holidayed in Italy
            before,  but  now  with  my
            partner and our 6-year-old
            daughter Kitty in tow, and
            two weeks at our disposal,
            we were ready for a road
            trip.  Sicily’s  size,  culture,
            food and weather make it
            an enticing destination.
            Located  in  the  Mediter-
            ranean, Sicily has been of
            strategic  importance  from
            ancient times. The Greeks,
            Carthaginians,    Romans,
            Saracens  and  Normans
            are just a few of the civili-
            zations that invaded, each
            leaving their mark.
            A  rainy  day  led  us  to  Pal-  Snow-covered Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano, spews lava during an eruption seen from the Sicilian village of Pozzillo,
            ermo’s Royal Palace. Con-    Italy. Mount Etna is a very active volcano, where eruptions of smoke and sometimes lava is a sight for visitors to Sicily and locals
            struction began in the ninth   alike.
            century  during  the  Arab                                                                                           (AP Photo/Salvatore Allegra)
            era,  and  it  was  later  ex-                                                         hotel in Taormina, on the is-  which  can  still  be  seen,
            panded  by  the  Normans,                                                              land’s northeast coast, en-  were  incorporated  into  a
            invaders   from   northern                                                             joying  the  sunshine,  when  church in the seventh cen-
            France,  who  assimilated                                                              Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest  tury. A massive earthquake
            designs of the Islamic and                                                             active  volcano,  emerged  in  1693  devastated  much
            Byzantine  courts  that  pre-                                                          from  behind  clouds  and  of  the  region  and  many
            ceded them. Sicily’s Arab-                                                             appeared to float, emitting  towns were rebuilt in a late
            Norman  architecture  is  on                                                           two  white  plumes  from  its  baroque  style,  which  be-
            UNESCO’s  World  Heritage                                                              snow-covered summit.         came known as Sicilian Ba-
            List.  The  jewel  of  the  Roy-                                                       Taormina  is  Sicily’s  plush-  roque.  Syracuse’s  Duomo
            al  Palace  is  the  Palatine                                                          est resort, more Capri than  is  a  good  example  and
            Chapel  built  in  Byzantine                                                           Naples, with an ambiance  we also visited the nearby
            style  with  lavish  golden                                                            that  recalls  “La  Dolce  town of Noto, also famous
            mosaics  of  saints,  Arabic                                                           Vita.”  Audrey  Hepburn,  for baroque buildings. Even
            patterns  and  a  wooden                                                               Ingrid  Bergman,  Richard  if  you’re  not  a  fan  of  the
            muqarnas-style ceiling — a                                                             Burton and Elizabeth Taylor  opulent  style,  it’s  fascinat-
            type of ornamented vault-                                                              are just a few of the famous  ing how Sicily’s history can
            ing  often  associated  with                                                           names  who  have  stayed  be explored through its ar-
            Islamic domes. Sicily’s Op-                                                            here.  The  resort’s  main  at-  chitecture.
            era  dei  Pupi,  which  dates                                                          tractions  are  the  ancient  In the middle of the island’s
            to  the  19th  century,  fea-                                                          Greek theater and a cable  southern  coast,  a  road
            tures  wooden  puppets  in                                                             car that takes you down to  leads  to  the  Valley  of  the
            tales  of  medieval  chivalry                                                          a rocky promontory called  Temples  near  Agrigento,
            and  battles.  Some  of  the                                                           Isola Bella.                 an  ancient  Greek  and
            opera’s puppets, and oth-                                                              Our  quest  to  circumnavi-  UNESCO  World  Heritage
            ers from around the world,                                                             gate the island led us next  site  with  seven  temples
            are on display at the Inter-                                                           to Syracuse on Sicily’s south  dating  to  the  sixth  cen-
            national  Museum  of  Mari-                                                            eastern corner. We stayed  tury  B.C.  We  visited  two,
            onettes. An in-house show                                                              in Orytiga (Ortigia), a small  the  Temple  of  Juno  (also
            stars  Orlando,  a  medieval   This photo shows the Temple of Concordia in the Valley of the   island which was once the  known as Temple of Hera)
            knight  who  must  rescue    Temples, in Agrigento, Sicily, Italy. It’s one of seven Greek tem-  historic  center  of  the  city,  and the Temple of Concor-
            his beloved Angelica from    ples in the area that date to ancient times and have been de-  connected  to  the  main-  dia. Concordia, which was
            a  legion  of  Saracens.  Par-  clared a UNESCO World Heritage site.                   land by two bridges.         eventually  turned  into  a
            ents,  be  warned:  It  is  a                                 (AP Photo/Siobhan Starrs)  Syracuse’s main cathedral,  church,  is  considered  one
            rather violent plot (though   ens  of  marionettes,  which  heads, one lost its face.  il Duomo, is built on the site  of  the  world’s  finest  surviv-
            our  daughter  loved  it),   ended  up  in  heap  on  the  A  few  days  later  we  were   of  a  Greek  temple.  The  ing  examples  of  a  Greek
            with  the  hero  slaying  doz-  tiny  stage.  Some  lost  their  sitting on the terrace of our   original  Greek  columns,  temple.q
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