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TR A VEL

The Gift of the European

Christmas Markets

Feature and Photos by Dom Gagliardi

No matter how we try to imitate the Eu- Rigi Kulm, there was still time to explore
ropean Christmas markets here in the several of the larger markets. In the heart
United States, that is all they are—an of Luzern’s Old Town, Franziskanerplatz
imitation. With the first known Christ- is transformed into a miniature town
mas market said to have taken place in crammed with over seventy gaily deco-
Dresden, Germany in 1464, many of the rated stalls filled with handcrafted wares
current markets date back to the Middle and gift items, a wealth of food and drink,
Ages. Perhaps it is this shroud of histor- and its famed Christmas Carousel. Adja-
ic tradition, but nothing can match the cent to the Bahnhofplatz (central train
magic and ambiance of the holiday sea- station) sat another favorite market, Ru-
son that attracts millions of locals and vis- dolf’s Weinhnact, where visitors strolled
itors each year to experience the festivi- through the tiny cottages or gathered
ties found in such cities as Vienna, Zurich with friends around the many fire pits
or Salzburg. placed throughout the market.
The first time I celebrated Christmas and Upon leaving the German-speaking re-
New Years in Austria was in 2015. That gions of Switzerland, we trained over the
experience was so inspiring and memo- Alps to the Italian-speaking city of Luga-
rable I decided to return in 2023 but ex- no situated near the Swiss-Italian border
panded my horizons to include Switzer- in the Ticino region. Never to be disap-
land and Slovakia. My companion and I pointed, we discovered some of the larg-
crisscrossed these countries for nearly a er Christmas markets in Lugano’s Central
month immersing ourselves in the local District. The most notable was in the Piaz-
holiday traditions. While we stumbled za della Reforma where a huge traditional
into Christmas markets in many town or Christmas tree boasted its nearly perfect
village squares, often reflective of a differ- symmetry in the square. Over sixty tradi-
ent theme or attribute of that neighbor- tional wooden booths spilling over with
hood, I will highlight some of the larger food items, flowers, wreaths, and candles
and more renown markets. animated the streets. And just a few steps
Our first stop was in Zurich, Switzerland. away the Christmas market in Piazza Dan-
Despite a little rain, the Wienachtsdorf te showcased just as many delights with
Market, adjacent to the Zurich Opera slightly less bustle.
House, teemed with revelers. The aroma
of roasted almonds and chestnuts that As enjoyable as the Christmas markets
were in Switzerland though, we were anx-
sifted through the night air teased one’s ious to arrive at our next stop in Vienna.
appetite, bewildered by which of the de- Christmas in Vienna is as romantic and
licious foods to try next. Fondue chalets magical as it sounds. With punch stands
were interspersed throughout the more on nearly every corner, the aroma of
than one hundred vendor stalls. Raclette roasted chestnuts, and the clickety-clack
anyone? In addition to the delectable of horse drawn carriages making their
food choices, handmade crafts, especially way through narrow cobblestone streets,
wooden Christmas ornaments, were pre- one cannot help but get into the spirit of
dominant at this market.
the season. Spending one full week in this
A two-hour train ride to the South old world but cosmopolitan city provided
brought us to our next stop, the post- ample time to visit many of the markets
card city of Luzern with its shimmering throughout the city, some multiple times.
lake and metaphorical welcome mat to Three of the largest markets are located at
the Alps. Although this was our jumping Stephenplatz surrounding St. Stephen’s
off point for some Alpine hiking in the Cathedral and at Schonbrunn Palace. But

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