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Sustainability
                                                                                     Cafeology
               ISSUES FACED AT ROBERTO’S FARM


                                                                                  Costa Rica in
                                                                                  general


                                                                                    Costa Rica, 7 years ago,
                                                                                  produced >3 million sacks of
                                                                                  coffee annually. Now, this
                                                                                  has nearly halved to 1.6-1.8
                                                                                  million sacks. This is mainly
                       The drying barn (right) at El Llano farm                   due to a lack of rentability
                       with mountains in the distance                             (i.e. farmers are unable to
                                                                                  make enough of a return on
                        Roberto’s juicy fermentation was born out of              their investment to remain
                       the need to keep up with the current trend of              profitable). Roberto said
                       fermented coffees and their unique flavour                 that, ideally, a farmer needs
                       profiles. However, many fermentation                       >5 hectares to be profitable.
                       methods require significant investment in                  Labour costs, suboptimal
                       terms of equipment (silos, etc) and time (juicy            weather conditions,
                       needs an extra 7-9 days to ferment before                  fluctuating market prices, etc
                       drying). From a farmer's point of view, they               combine to put a strain on
                       need to decide if that investment is worth the             coffee farmers. If coffee
                       risk of potentially ruining a batch of coffee (or          farming is no longer viable,
                       creating an undesirable flavour) as well as the            small-scale farmers often sell
                       trend disappearing and then owning                         land to larger farms or

                       expensive equipment that is now useless.                   developers. In the Dota

                        Therefore, the juicy process is intentionally             region, where Roberto lives
                       low-tech, using large food-safe plastic sacks              and farms, housing
                       and yeast rather than metal silos and funky                development is becoming
                       reagents. During my visit, we cupped some                  more common as people
                       experimental batches of juicy using a different            migrate out of the
                       yeast that was supposed to produce the same                overcrowded cities
                       flavour in half the time. This would help                  into the countryside (many
                       production massively but the flavour was not               now work from home so
                       comparable to the current method.                          they move to where it is
                                                                                  cheaper – and nicer!).
                        Loading the cherries into the plastic sacks is
                       time and labour-intensive too. Roberto is                  Therefore, land that was
                       looking for equipment to reduce this but he                previously used to grow           NOVEMBER/DECEMBER. 2024 | ISSUE 39
                       wants to see if the fermentation trend is here             coffee is now being altered
                       to stay before he makes that investment                    for other uses. As the supply
                       (unless any cheap equipment goes on sale                   of Costa Rican coffee
                       from a closed farm – which happens more                    production continues to fall,
                       often than you think).                                     the demand and price are
                                                                                  likely to increase.






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