Page 72 - Visit 1

Baština / Heritage

Samo tako ćemo dobiti kvalitetne od-
govore - ističe Kujundžić.
A kako bi se oni pronašli važno je, kaže Bosnian meat-filled pastry in Izmir
naš sagovornik, proći kroz historijsku
hronologiju ovih prostora, od vladavine According to oral folk literature, authentic Bosnian meals includes ćetenija (pulling paste), tufahija (wal-
bosanskih banova kraljeva (do 1463) , nut stuffed apples), bulgur (soup made with whole-grain cracked wheat), tarhana (a soup made with a
Osmanske vladavine (1463-1878), Au-
strougarske uprave (1878-1918), kralje- fermented and dehydrated mix of flour, yogurt, onions, tomatoes and green peppers), pita (filled pastry)...
vine Jugoslavije (do 1943) i na kraju “If you are not sure of a picture you see in a mirror, than look at a photo other people took. What I want
perioda SFRJ. Svaki od njih ostavio je to say? Today you can eat Boşnak Böreği (Bosniac meat-filled pastry) in Izmir and in some parts of Tur-
trag i u sferi kulinarstva. key thanks to our emigrants. You cannot hear the phrase “Bosanski burek” in Sarajevo, but we still have
burek. Ćetenija is our traditional dessert. Tufahija is also our dessert, even it has oriental name. ‘Tufah’
- Kada je riječ o starinskom bosanskom in Arabic means ‘apple’, but you cannot say the apple is typical Egyptian fruit. We have the folk song
kulinarstvu, treba imati u vidu svu slo- “Dva jarana” (Two Friends), recorded between WW1 and WW2. Two main characters are “bulgur” and
jevitost te historije i geografski položaj “tarhana”. Dolma (stuffed vegetable leaves) in Bosnia is different from dolma in Turkey, primarily by
zemlje, jer je on umnogome odredio ono
što je bila poljoprivredna proizvodnja size. Evlija Čelebi, Ottoman explorer who travelled through the territory of the Ottoman Empire and ne-
u BiH i ono što se tokom vremena ge- ighbouring lands over a period of forty years, said that ‘a serving size in Bosnia is a size of a man’. This is
neriralo kao ishrana stanovništva. Tu su not a diet food. In Turkey piece of baklava is small, maybe because Turks are more diet-aware. The same
važne dvije značajke, jedna se odnosi na thing is with ingredients. Baklava made with pistachio is Turkish dessert. In Bosnia it’s baklava with
to kako su se hranili težaci, a kako opet prune, but we have local baklava recipes in Krajina region, Sarajevo, Brčko, Tuzla etc.”, Kujundžić said.
gradsko stanovništvo. Godine 1907. u
„Glasniku zemaljskog muzeja“ njegov
saradnik Petar Majstorović piše kako je
hrana težaka u BiH uglavnom slična, bez
obzira na vjersku i nacionalnu pripad- ates? In 1907 Petar Majstorović wrote
nost. Spominje se primjer papule – vr- an article in the Herald of the National
ste graha koji se pripremao na specifi- Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina. He
čan način i bio je neka vrsta hrane za said hard workers had ate similar food, and
putnike – navodi Kujundžić. religion and ethnicity hadn’t influence
d on that cuisine. He took “papula” as
UTJECAJI SA ISTOKA an example. This bean spread has been
BiH, kao kulturni ambijent, trpila je prepared for travellers”, Kujundžić said.
utjecaje sa raznih strana i sigurno je EASTERN INFLUENCES
da, tvrdi Kujundžić, granica država
i imperija nije bila prepreka da se ti Bosnia and Herzegovina, as a cultural
utjecaji šire s jednog prostora na drugi. ambience, has been influenced by
different impacts. State and imperial
- Kad govorimo o osmanskom perio- borders have never been obstacles for
du, ambijent u Sarajevu je bio nešto these influences.
drugačiji nego u Istanbulu koji je i me-
diteranski grad u kome su se kuhari “In Ottoman period a cultural ambience
mogli osloniti na vrste voća i povrća in Sarajevo wasn’t like an ambience in
koje se ne mogu uzgajati u Sarajevu. Istanbul. Istanbul is Mediterranean city
Uzmimo primjer, baklaveukoja je karak- and chefs use fruits and vegetables that
teristična za čitav Balkan i Malu Aziju, cannot be grown in Sarajevo. For example,
ali i Bliski Istok. U BiH se priprema 28 baklava (nut-filled pastry) is typical cake in
vrsta baklava. Ko će sada tačno utvrdi- the Balkans, Anatolia/Asia Minor and the
ti koje su vrste nastale pod utjecajem Middle East. There are 28 different baklava
Istoka, a koja je baklava autentična, recipes in Bosnia. Who can say exactly
naša domaća. Kad prošetate Baščar- which one was influenced by the East,
šijom, naići ćete na tipično arapski and which recipe is authentic, Bosnian?
restoran u kojem se pripremaju jela There is a typical Arabian restaurants at
koja su karakteristična za Egipat i Bli- Sarajevo’s old bazaar and historical centre
ski Istok. Možda je to najbolji način da Baščaršija. It serves a food typical for
sagledamo kako su se kulturni utjecaji Egypt and Middle East. This could be the
sa Istoka širili u Bosni. S druge strane, best way to sum up how Eastern cultural
Sarajevo ima kontinentalnu klimu koja influences came to Bosnia. On the other
je pogodna za stočarstvo, u njegovoj hand, Sarajevo has Continental climate,
okolini se uzgajaju jabuke, kruške, šlji- perfect for ranching and planting apples,
ve, orasi. Upravo ti klimatski uvjeti de- pears, plums and walnuts. The climate
terminirali su šta će se naći na našem determinates what will be on your desk”,
stolu – pojašnjava Kujundžić. Kujundžić said.

MART / MARCH 2017. 71