Page 28 - DIVA_3_2009
P. 28

Next   moming,   I went   to  the

              The   night   had  just   fallen   when
                                                                                      Central   Bus   Station   of  Haifa   to
              I  arrived    in   the   vast   and
                                                                                      take   the   bus   to   Jerusalem.
             modem   Ben  Gourion   Airport
                                                                                      Buses   are  an  extremely    conve-
             in  Tel  Aviv.   As  I  waited,   just
                                                                                      nient   way   to  travel   in  Israel.
              outside   the  maiii   entrance,   for
                                                                                      Most  places   -  except   Eilat   -  can
              the  sherout   (collectiye    taxi)   to
                                                                                      be  reached   by  bus  in  less  than
              leave   for   Haifa,    a seemingly

                                                                                      tbree   hours.    Central   bus  sta-
             endless   stream   of   religious
                                                                                      tions,   which    are   also   indoor
             Jews   iii   dark   suits   and  hats,   and
                                                                                      malls,   are  good   places   to  obser-
             medieval    attire,    kept    coming
                                                                                      ve  the  Israeli   society.   I  noted
              out  of   tlie   aiiport.   Not   surpri-
                                                                                      that  many   of   the   passengers
             singly,   they   were   all   lieaded   for
                                                                                      were   female   soldiers,   young
             Jeiusalem.   The  di'iver    of   the
                                                                                      women   cairying    a  gun.   There
             sherout   explained    that   a jui'nbo
                                                                                      were   also   lots   of  religious   peo-
             jet   must    have   arrived    from

                                                                                      ple  - especially,   of   course,   to
             New   York   which   has   a  veiy
             large  coininunity    of   Hassidic  1-    I   i                         and   from   Jeiusalem.
             Jews.  Many   Israelis   are  wor-
                                                                                      At   the   Israeli   Minish'y    of
             i'ied   about   the  rapid   growth   of
                                                                                      Foreign  Affairs,    we   liad   a  good
             the  numbers   of  relig'ous    Jews,
                                                                                      meeting   with   Daii   Haezrachy,
             wondering    if   that   represents   a
                                                                                      the   Director    of  Middle    East
             threat   to   the   democratic    and
                                                                         @            Projects,   and  Silvia   Berladski
             secular   future   of  Israel.   Well,   of
                                                                                      Banich,   tlie  liead   of   literature
             coirse,   it  does.   Political    parties
                                                                                      section.   We   agrccd   that   holding
             such   as  Shas,  whose   'spiritual
                                                                                      the   meeting   u'ider  tlie   sponsors-
             autliority',    the  87  year-old   rabbi
                                                                                      liip   of   P.E.N.   hitemational    was
             Ovadya   Yosef   appears   to  liate
                                                                                      an  excellent   idea.  We  made   a
             the  Palestiniaiis,     should   liave
                                                                                      phone   call   to  Jamal   Zakout,   tlie
             no  place   iii   the   IsraeIi   political
                                                                                      liead   of  Infonnation    at   the
             life.   Tlie   time    lias   come   to
                                                                                      Piime   Minister's    Office   who
             separate    state  and  relig'on   iii
                                                                                      agreed,   despite   the  fact   tliat   it
             Israel.
                                                                                      was   an  impoitant    Islainic   holi-
                                                                                      day,  to  meet   witli   me,  on  the
             Ii'i  the  end,  I  took   the  train   to
                                      had   chosen   to   be   based    in  has  been  made   into   a  successful  following     moming,     in
             Haifa.   I  happened   to  sit  across
                                      Haifa,   a  port   city   where   Jews  film.   Ramallali.
             from   a  senior    officer   of  the
                                      and  Arabs   co-exist   peacefully,
             Israeli   Air   Force.   When   I  told
                                      as  evidenced   by  an  annual   festi-  I  liad   met   Sarni   and   Rachel,   his  The   bus  station   used   by   Israeli
             l    why   I  l'iad  come   to  Israel-
                                      val  of   the  three  monoflieistic  chai'ining   young   wife   who   is  Arabs   visiting   friends   and   rela-
             Palestine,   one  tlmg   that   he  said
                                      religions   that   takes   place   at  the  also   his   literaiy    agent,   twice  tives   in   tl'ie  West   Bank   cities   is,
             has  remained    with   me:   You   see,
                                      end   of  tlie   year   and   lasts   for   five  before,   in  2007   and   2008,   both  iii   East   Jeiusalem,    not   far   from
             Palestinians    and  Israelis   have
                                      weeks.   Thanks   to  a  fi'iend   a  for-  times   in  Bled,   Slovenia,   at  tlie  tlie   Ainei'ican    Colony   Hotel   (a
             different    cultures,    we   liave    a
                                      mer   colleague,   professor    Jacob  annual    conference     of    tlie  very   beautiful    and   l'ffstoi'ic   five-
             Westei'ii   culture,   they   have   an
                                      BamaY,   I  was  able   to  secure  Wi'iters   for  Peace   Cominittee    of  star   hotel    patronized     by   an
             oi'iental   culture.   We   don't   tMnk
                                      affordable   and  coinfoitable    at  P.E.N.   Intemational    which   is  a  iiiteriiational    crowd   of   visiting
             the  same   way,   the  mentalities
                                      tlie   University    of  Haifa.   Saini,   a  the  only   world-wide    organiza-  diplomats,     expeits    and   big
             are  not   the   saine.   Well,   I  did   not
                                      well-laiown    Israeli    wiiter    of  tion   of   writers    (founded    in  NGO   representatives).
             tell  lmn,   but  tliat   is  not  hue:
                                      Iraqi    origin,     is    also    the  1921,   in  tlie  affei'inatli    of   tlie
             More   tliaii   half   of   tl'ie  Israeli
                                      President     of    ACRI     (the  fu'st   world   war,   by  writers   hor-  The    forty-minute     trip    to
             poprilation    is  forined   by  Jews
                                      Association    of   Civil   Rights   in  i'ified   by   the   caniage,   it  has  145  Ramallah   in  a collective    taxi

             of  Sepliardic    (initially    from
                                      Israel).   Saini's   novels,   all   best-  centres   in  more   than   100   cohui-  cost   tne  six  shekels   (less  tlian
             Spain   aiid   Portiigal)    and   Nortli
                                      sellers   iii   Israel   that   have   been  hies   aiid   represents   more   thait  US$   2  dollars).   On  account   of
             African    (notably    Moroccan)
                                      translated   into   a large   nunber  15,000    writers     arormd    the  the   holiday,    tlie   veliicle    was

             origin.   They   liave   more   iii   com-
                                      of  languages,   reflect   his   deeply-  world).  filled   witli   a  dozen   or  so  well-
             mon   witli   Palestinians    tliai'i
                                      lield   belief   that   the  Israeli   and      dressed    Israeli    Arab    and
             with   Ainei'icaiis    or  Europeans.
                                      the   Palestinian     peoples    liave  Saini   and   Rachel   invited   me  to  Palestiiiian     men,   women    and
             What   is  tnie,   on  the   other   hand,
                                      many   tliings   in   coininon    and  have   dii'uier   at  their   place.   Tliey  cl'iildren.   Two   or  three   of   tl'ie
             is  that   the   founders   of  tlie   State
                                      can  live   side  by  side  in  peace  have   a  nice   aparhrient   iii   a  lugli  women   wore   a scaif   coveiiiig

             of   Israel   were   all  Ashkenazic
                                      and  fi-iendslnp.   A  street   in  tlie  i'ise  tliat   lias  a  beautiful    view   of  tlieir   liair.   One,   wlio   was   yormg
             (Eastem    &iropean-Polisli,
                                      Wadi    (Valley    in  Arabic,    tlie  tlie   Haifa   Bay.   It   was   great  and  attractive,   and   wore   a  suit,
             Gennan    and   Russian)    Jews
                                      lower   pait   of  Haifa   close   to  tlie  seeiiig   tliem   again   after   ahnost  did  not.  Slie  was  cheeifiil    and
             wlio   still,   today,   even   if  to  a  les-
                                      sea where   tbe   Israeli  Arabs   live)  a  year.  Racliel   had   prepared   a  talkative.   We  travelled   straight
             ser  extent,   dominate    tlie   Israeli
                                      lias   been,   iii   recognition     and  very   tasty   cliickei'i    casserole.  to  Ramallali,    not   liaviiig   to  stop
             intellectual,    political   and  eco-
                                      gratitude,   decorated   witli   pos-  We  rensced    aborit   Bled   and  at  tlie  clieck   poiiit   - a yoring


             noinic   lives.
                                      ters   of  his  several   books,   one  of  plotted   strategy.   Tliey   gave   me  female   soldier    checked    our
                                      wliicli,    Tiun'ipet   in  the  Wadi,  a  small   jar   of   delicioris   pickled  papers   on   tlie   way   back    to
             To  be  close   to  Saini   Michael    I
                                                              olives.                 Jenisalem.
                26  3  2009   Diva
                           wwwdivanternationalch
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